We've just about sold out of our first batch so we have the rest those hubs on eBay for now. The next shipment should be here by November 1st. Sorry for any supply delays. - Matthew






At Kogswell, there's nothing more satisfying than finding a modern, sustainable source for a classic component.

So when we heard that a top-quality coaster brake hub was still being produced in the Czech Republic, using tooling licensed from Fichtel and Sachs, we knew that we had to do what we could to help this little company keep on keep'n on.

The little company is Velosteel and the hub is a superb example of German design and Czech know-how.




The thoughtful may well wonder why anyone would get excited about a coaster brake hub. They are, after all, the stuff of kid's bikes and vintage kids bikes at that.

But we think that coaster brakes have a lot going for them: they're simple and durable, they work well for travel bikes, and now that single-speed and fixed gear cycling has become main stream, the stage is set for the rebirth of the coaster brake.

If you already know what to do with one, use the PayPal button at the top of this page to place an order.

And if you just want to know more, read on.


Spoke holes: 36
Spoke hole diamter: 2.8mm (14ga)
OVer locknut dimension: 120mm
Chainline: 40mm
Standard cog: 19 tooth
Axle nut threading: 10 x 1.00mm
Center-to-flange (left and right): 34mm [W]
Flange diameter: 52.5mm [d]
Weight w/ cog: 32 oz


What follows is a simple guide for those who wish to work on a Velosteel coaster brake. If you have any experience with a coaster brake internals, you will be VERY comfortable the Velosteel hub. There's nothing tricky and disassembly and reassembly are easy.



You service a Velosteel hub from the non-drive or left hand side. There is a 17mm locknut that holds the hub together and you can use a 17mm wrench to loosen it. I had a thin-wall socket so that's what I used.




Once the locknut is off, you can slide off the flat washer(s), the saftey(keyed) washer, the brake arm and the brake arm dust cover.




Once the brake arm dust cover is off, the non-drive side bearing cone is exposed. It too threads off. The cone's threads are a 11mm, instead of the 10mm for the locknut, so about half way off the axle the cone is free and can be pulled off.




With the non-drive side bearing cone out of the way, the balls can be removed and the shell will be free to slide off.




If you slide the shell off, all that's left is the spindle (the axle), the brake assembly (the drum with the brake actuator inside) and the driving set (the clutch and cog).




Here's a photo that shows all of the parts and assemblies.